fangin.com RC, photos & tech

5Jul/131

GoPro 3 Waterproof Case Broken Latch.

I broke the latch on my GoPro 3 waterproof case while closing it. A genuine replacement is $50 and a Chinese eBay special is about $35. Seems such a waste when it's just the latch that's broken.
I got in touch with Gopro via their support web page and after emailing them some details and a photo of the broken latch, they've shipped a replacement latch to me under warranty (no charge).
I guarantee we'll see latches available to buy separately in the shops or on eBay soon.

20130705-105618.jpg

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9May/13Off

A reason why SEO is critical is because all the time you put into generating great content and optimizing your site with on page SEO improves the usability of your site, which in turn improves search engine visibility.

Why SEO Will Be Still Worth It In 2020 And Beyond? - IntelligentHQ

How To Improve SEO With WordPress?

Making the switch to WordPress will make your site more visible to visitors and users, not to mention that it will make your site more functional and user friendly.

Of course, as a new site owner, you need to make sure that you don't do anything silly with your site. Here are a few tips on how you can improve WordPress SEO and improve the user experience on your site, just be sure to also find further information on the
Victorious website.

Use a good anchor text

The above image illustrates exactly what a bad anchor text is. It includes all the words that make up your keyword, but none of them are what you want on your page.

The trick is to use a better keyword and include a title and meta description that improve the relevancy of your content for the visitors that you attract.

Test your meta description

If your article includes more than a few words, you may want to test your meta description with Google. Some websites have been able to increase their rankings simply by testing their meta description.

Make use of SEO Metatags

If you write many new posts that add important information to an existing post, you may want to create a meta tag on those posts. This way, you can crawl your new posts and then display them in a more relevant manner by using a meta tag in your old posts.

WordPress makes this really easy, and it would be best if you do it right the first time. To add a meta tag, go to the "Manage Content" tab and then click the "Add New Metatags" button. You'll see that you have the option to search for existing tags, or start from scratch.

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30Apr/130

Hemp Proteins

Hemp protein is a powder made from the seeds of the hemp plant. Hemp has numerous benefits. It is very anti-inflammatory, full of vitamins, antioxidants, and omega-3 fatty acids. It's also extremely high in protein. Hemp protein is made into snacks, shakes, and even protein bars. Most Protein powders also have high amounts of omega-3 fatty acids, minerals, amino acids, and a wide variety of vitamins, minerals and antioxidants. In addition, they also contain fiber, phytochemicals, vitamins, antioxidants, and beta-carotene. Hemp protein is another fantastic source of omega-3 fatty acids, and you can find hemp products like oil or capsules to complement your nutrition needs, you can also get 30% off now with coupon code ADVANTAGE. This is important because there are studies showing a connection between omega-3 fatty acids and an increased risk of heart disease. A diet rich in fish or extra-virgin olive oil, both of which are high in omega-3 fatty acids, can reduce your risk of heart disease. Since hemp protein is high in omega-3 fatty acids, it's also a great source of the important, long-chain omega-3 fatty acids EPA and DHA. As a result, it's an excellent, cheap source of these beneficial fats.

Can Hemp Protein be Used as an Alternative to Milk?

With all of the positive health effects that are associated with hemp protein, it's no wonder that a number of manufacturers are now incorporating hemp protein into their products. What's more, hemp protein products are available in a variety of forms. Hemp protein powder can be made into a delicious snack, shake, or bars and can even be made into delicious hot chocolate or ice cream. Another exciting development is that hemp protein supplements are becoming easier and easier to find. This is largely because of the growing political resistance to federal farm subsidies in the U.S. This lack of support has forced many companies to look for new ways to make money without government subsidies. Many companies now offer hemp protein products on their own websites, offering hemp protein powders that are fortified with a combination of vitamins, minerals, and fatty acids. They're also a great source of omega-3 fatty acids. Companies have also developed special hemp protein powder bars and healthy-food-beverage products made from hemp flour. Both of these products are made to provide the nutritional benefits of hemp protein powder but with the convenience of a cookie, a shake, or a bar. You can use these products as alternatives to the products that come in packages, or you can try to eat them on their own. These are both great options for getting the nutrition you need without sacrificing quality. In other words, you can eat more of the delicious foods that come in bags, but you can also make them from scratch at home and enjoy them on their own terms.

How Can You Get More Hemp Protein?

Hemp protein has not gained acceptance by the food industry at the same pace as other protein sources. Because it's such a versatile food, there are a variety of options for obtaining a larger quantity of hemp protein. These include soaking, sprouting, and grinding your own hemp seeds. These methods have many advantages over just eating your seeds. These methods also eliminate the hassle of buying bags of hemp protein powder. Another option is to make your own hemp protein bars.

7Apr/130

1.3GHz Low Pass Filter – The Case For

 


Today I flew the PVC quad on another shakedown flight (after fiddling with the configuration via the GCS). I was flying over a fairly large oval, not very high but on the far side from where I was sitting when all motors lost power. I believe failsafe on my Futaba kicked in. You can hear in the video that the motors stop and then just before hitting the ground, they briefly start again. I walk over to the quad from the other side of the oval, perform a quick inspection to make sure nothings broken or fallen off and without any other changes or resets, power up the OP CC3D by holding yaw right and away I go.

 
 
 
 
I've used this Futaba Tx and Rx pair in nitro fixed wing models at much further range and never had an issue. The main difference is now I have a 150mW 1.3GHz video transmitter (http://www.readymaderc.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=11_30_38&products_id=1018) about 20cm away from my 7 channel 2.4GHz receiver. I've read about guys using low pass filters on the vTx so I thought it might be worth checking the interaction between the 1.3Ghz vTx and the 2.4GHz Rx. Fortunately a guy from work that came out to watch carries a spectrum analyser around in his car so we set about looking at how "dirty" is the 1.3GHz vTx.
 
The screenshots of the specan show a 2GHz wide band centred at 2GHz (so it's showing from 1 - 3 GHz). The first screenshot is using the "Max Hold" function on the specan which is effectively a cumulative trace that shows the max detected levels across the band and holds it. This screenshot shows my 2.4GHz Tx as well as the in building wifi and a few other small peaks. At this point, my video transmitter is powered down.
 
 
The second screenshot on the same scale (1 to 3GHz) after the vTx has been powered up for a few seconds. You can see a peak at 1280MHz (vTx frequency) but disturbingly, across the whole band are is a whole lot of noise coming from the vTx. The second harmonic at 2560MHz appears to be right where we see the Futaba Tx.
 
 
The effect of this noisy little transmitter means it's desensitising my 2.4GHz receiver. It's like someone talking really loud (1.3GHzvTx) standing right next to you (2.4GHz Rx) when you're trying to listen to instructions from someone talking in a normal voice on the other side of the room (the 2.4GHz Tx). 
 
To address the problem a 1.3GHz low pass filter can be fitted in-line on the vTx between the output and the antenna. The low pass filter allows the video signal to be transmitted down in the 1.3GHz band but anything above roughly that frequency is heavily attenuated. The noise coming from the vTx is no longer shouting in the ear of the 2.4GHz receiver so I can hear the instructions from the transmitter much easier and at a further distance. I've ordered this low pass filter (http://www.foxtechfpv.com/1400mhz-low-pass-filter-p-439.html) from foxtechfpv to hopefully solve the problem.
 
I forgot to mention why 1.3Ghz and 2.4GHz interfere with each other - harmonics. Check it out on wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic
 
What I found most useful today was being able to see the problem right there on the spectrum analyser. Being able to see the video transmitter peak at 1280MHz and then all the  smaller peaks across the rest of the band including the 2.4GHz area right where my Futaba Tx is.
 
What will be interesting to look at next is after I fit the low pass filter, how does it look on the spectrum analyser. I expect it should look much cleaner. Something else I also want to look at on the specan is the 1 watt 1.3GHz vTx  fitted to my DJI F450. I've flown that at much further range without issue. Is the vTx a much better one where it transmits only on the frequency its supposed to? I'll hook it up and find out.
 
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Without the "Max Hold" function on the specan, this is how it looks.;
 
First with the 1.3GHz vTx off
 
Then with the vTx on
Filed under: CC3D, FPV, RC No Comments
13Feb/130

Tuning the CC3D – Step 1

 


I haven't had the chance to actually go fly the YAPVCBQ since the somewhat unsuccessful maiden so the next best thing is to tune it indoors and I'm learning heaps. For example, the first time I fired it up on the line, only motors 1 & 3 were turning consistently. First thought was I had dodgy connections to 2 & 4. What I figured out (I think) was that I had to disable the yaw and pitch stabilisation because strung up on the wire like that it was trying to compensate in an axis it had no control over. 

Well I think that logic stands up because after disabling yaw and pitch, all four motors worked fine.

I set out to tune the inner loop in rate mode for a start with the default setting of Kp 20 and Ki 0. Rotating the quad until it was level was easy enough but it would pretty much start drifting off level straight away. I upped Ki to 15 and it held it longer before starting to drift. 
That's all I've had time for so far but I've found tuning it strung up like this much better than going out to fly. First it lets me concentrate on one axis at a time and second it's much easier to plug the laptop in straight away to adjust the values.

 

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13Dec/120

Cutting the shaft on the NTM Prop Drive 28-26 1350KV / 310W

For the PVC 'BattleQuad' I'm building I ordered four 'NTM Prop Drive 28-26 1350KV / 310W' motors as I've used them before on a Hex 550 build and am quite happy with them. These motors are a little different in that you have to buy a seperate accessories pack to get a mount for the base of the motor and a prop adaptor. The motor is a little odd in the way that the shaft extends out the bottom of the motor and the prop adaptor is attached via three bolts on the opposite side from where the shaft protrudes from. In my previous build this wasn't a big problem because  the way the motors were mounted, the shaft could extend below the arm without interfering.

On my current build, the PVC 'Battlequad', the way the motor slides onto the arms, the shaft was going to get in the way. I could easy shorten the arms and cut a line down the length of the PVC pipe but I've got some plans for extended length arms so I want to keep them intact. I decide to cut the shaft off the motors. The concern with this option is in the process of cutting with the Dremel, the fine metal dust created from the cut could potentially end up getting inside the motor. 

The first method I employed to avoid this problem was to put the motor back into the re-sealable plastic bag it came in, poke just the shaft through the plastic so the motor is contained inside the back and just the shaft sticks out. The problem with this is that the bag wasn't up to the job of withstanding the red hot metal filings and a hole was quickly burnt in the bag and became a collection point for all the metal filings. My solution the keep the filings out of the motor had had the opposite effect and was actually diverting filings into the confined space around the motor and it's precious little magnets.

My next solution worked much better and was even simpler. Take a piece of cloth tape (about 8cm wide by 15cm in length), fold it in half and cut a small triangle in the centre of the fold. Flatten out the tape so now you have a piece of tape with a small diamond shaped hole in the middle, just large enough for a motor shaft to fit through. Put the tape over the motor with the shaft protruding through the small hole and Dremel away. If you've cut enough length of cloth tape, there should be plenty left to wrap around the motor and keep the metal filings out. The cloth tape is much sturdier and kept the red hot metal filings out without melting.

 

2Dec/120

PVC Quad build

PVC quadPVC quadKK PVC QuadPVC quadPVC QuadPVC Quad

PVC Quad

PVC Quad, a set on Flickr.

The PVC quad was inspired by HelliYea's Battlequad post over on the Openpilot forums (http://forums.openpilot.org/topic/13503-battlequad/page__hl__%20battlequad).

I've seen it fly (and crash) and it shows great flight capability along with rugged frame construction.

The 15mm PVC pipe is straight from the local hardware store. RCTimer motors, KK2.0 flight controller and DJI F450 centre frame.

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7Nov/122

GoPro Hero 2 firmware downgrade to v124

After applying the latest firmware update to enable Protune mode I encountered a number of problems;

  1. Occasionally on startup the camera would hang showing the video icon and nothing else.
  2. In Protune video mode, the camera would not create a second video file after reaching a maximum file size of 1.85GB on the first file.
  3. Startup would take noticeably longer.

I've since downgraded the firmware back to the original version available to download here http://software.gopro.com/Firmware/v124/HD2-firmware.bin

After the firmware downgrade I had my reliable old camera back.

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29Oct/121

Quadcopter Parts List

I was asked recently what would be a good way to start in multirotors. The first question was "A tri-copter must be simpler and easier because there's only 3 motors?". I disagree. I've built quite a few tricopters and on each one explored a different way of building the yaw control mechanism on the tail motor. Some worked well, some not so well but by the time the servo is mounted and linkages hooked up, it all gets more complicated and less reliable compared bunging on a fourth motor and prop spinning in the opposite direction. I think what finally converted me was assembling the DJI F450 frame with the Naza controller. This quad was smooth and stable from the first flight and is an ideal platform for mounting a GoPro camera on for some aerial photos & videos. The downside of the DJI is that it's not cheap. I spent over $600 on the Flight controller, frame kit and GPS module and that's assuming you already have LiPo batteries, LiPo charger, radio control transmitter & receiver and other bits and pieces. It can quickly become an expensive option especially if you're just getting started.

Another option is the "toy quads" you'll find in electronics stores or maybe even the local shopping centre. They're cheap and maybe a good way to get a taste for flying multi-rotor but they have certain disadvantages;

1) The parts are generally not re-usable for your next project. The motors, ESCs and controller are so deeply integrated they're not easily adapted to another frame.

2) Often they're quite small with payload capacity to match. The small quads will struggle to carry much more than a lightweight spycam let alone a GoPro or pocket digital camera

So what to buy for a simple, cheap, respectable quadcopter with parts that could be re-used in your next project, maybe a hexcopter. This shopping list should cover absolutely everything you'd need to start from scratch.

Flight Controller: $29.99 Hobbyking KK2.0 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Control Board

Auto-level with and LCD screen for configuring and tuning. Eight outputs good for tri-copter up to Octo-copter. The downside is no barometric pressure sensor (height hold) or GPS (position hold) but at that price, those features aren't expected. It also has a built in voltage monitor that outputs an audible alarm at a programmable low voltage level. This feature requires a couple of extra wires soldered to the board and is well worth the trouble.

 

Frame: $17.99, Q450 Glass Fiber Quadcopter Frame 450mm - Integrated PCB Version

A simple, sturdy frame that comes with an allen key for the 2.5 and 3mm boltsand even a velcro strap for the battery. The lower board has an integrated PCB which means there's no need a messy power distribution cable arrangement

 

Motors: $14.99 (x4), NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w

Ideal size and power for this frame. The mouting holes align perfectly. Something odd with this motor I hadn't come across before was the shaft sticking out the rear / bottom of the motor. The accessories pack is needed as a propeller mount and uses three bolts to attach to the motor. I quite like this method as compared to the prop savers with the rubber o-ring or the collet style adaptors.

 

$1.89 (x4), NTM Prop Drive 28 Series Accessory Pack

You won't need the motor mount or the four silver screws, just the prop adaptor. With the Q450 frame, the bolts go through the frame and straight into the bottom of the motor.

 

$12.19 (x4), TURNIGY Plush 30amp Speed Controller

Simple, reliable, does what it's supposed to without any fuss. The difference in weight between the 18, 25 and 30 Amp ESCs is barely worth compromising the current capacity for.

 

$1.59, PolyMax 3.5mm Gold Connectors 10 PAIRS (20PC)

Some might solder their motor wires straight to the ESC but I've never been organised enough to plan that far ahead. I need the flexibility to swap any two of the three motor wires. I've read alot about bad or loose connections that have caused crashes. I've never experienced this type of failure. I think probably because it all comes down to a good solder joint.

 

$2.46, Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045R (4 pc - Green, RH Rotation)

Eight inch, Right Hand (RH / Clockwise) rotation. Four to a pack but you'll only need two with two spares. At these prices though, if you're ordering any spares, props should be high on the list. Get two packs.

 

$2.29, Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045 SF (4 pc - Green)

As above but they turn the other way. I like coloured props (as opposed to black) because they're much easier to see. In bright daylight, black props look almost invisible compared to green props which seem to present a good contrast against the sky.

 

$4.75, 10CM Male to Male Servo Lead (JR) 26AWG (10pcs/set)

These connect the receiver to the inputs on the flight controller board.

 

$16.38, Turnigy 2200mAh 4S1P 20C Lipo Pack

Minimum capacity and C rating you'd want to use for a decent flight time.

 

Now up until this point, it's assumed you already have some RC equipment from other projects. For those that are starting out and need a LiPo charger and Transmitter / Receiver etc, here are some suggestions.

$53.95, Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter w/ Module & 8ch Receiver (Mode 1) (v2 Firmware)

From accounts I've read online, the Turnigy radios are a good way to get started. A nine channel radio and receiver for just over $50 is good value! This package doesn't come with batteries or charger but seeing as most people will already have these, it makes sense for Hobbyking to exclude these parts.

 

$6.89, HobbyKing 1500mAH LiFe 3S 9.9v Transmitter pack.

A Tx is no good without power. Compatible with the charger below but you'll need another lead for charging.

 

 

$16.99, HobbyKing 50watt 5A X-Charger/Balancer

This battery charger will be enough to get you up and running doing balanced charges on LiPo's. It will also charge NiMH and NiCd batteries often used in transmitters. Note - it is a DC only input so you'll have to hook it up to a car battery or similar and can't plug it onto 110 / 240 AC wall outlets. For a charger with both DC & AC input, look at a "B6-AC Plus - Charger/Discharger 1-6 Cells Dual Power (COPY)" or better.

 

 

$2.69, Charging harness

Use this harness to charge the Tx LiFe battery. You'll probably never use ALL the connectors on this charging harness but even if it means cutting some off and re-purposing with a different connector, for a few dollars it takes the pain out of soldering up wires to banana leads.

 

I think that's pretty much everything you'd need to get in the air with a decent quad. The best thing about this setup is that down the track you could directly swap the KK2.0 control board for maybe a DJI Naza controller and add altitude and position hold, without having to change any motors or ESCs. The parts are all fairly cheap to replace so those first few crashes shouldn't be too painful on the wallet. If you can afford to, get two frames (1 for spare) so you don't have to wait weeks for another delivery from Hong Kong to repair / replace parts. Spare propellers are a must have and considering the price of them, it's a no brainer to order a few more packs of them.

There are a few more items like spare battery packs and LED strip lighting that you'll probably want to add down the track but for now the objective is to get a quad in the air for cheap, but not too cheap to make it nasty.

Ok so to recap, here's the parts list summary and totals;

 

Flight Controller: $29.99 Hobbyking KK2.0 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Control Board

Frame: $17.99, Q450 Glass Fiber Quadcopter Frame 450mm - Integrated PCB Version

Motors: $14.99 (x4), NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w

$1.89 (x4), NTM Prop Drive 28 Series Accessory Pack

$12.19 (x4), TURNIGY Plush 30amp Speed Controller

$1.59, PolyMax 3.5mm Gold Connectors 10 PAIRS (20PC)

$2.46, Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045R (4 pc - Green, RH Rotation)

$2.29, Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045 SF (4 pc - Green)

$4.75, 10CM Male to Male Servo Lead (JR) 26AWG (10pcs/set)

$16.38, Turnigy 2200mAh 4S1P 20C Lipo Pack

$53.95, Turnigy 9X 9Ch Transmitter w/ Module & 8ch Receiver (Mode 1) (v2 Firmware)

$6.89, HobbyKing 1500mAH LiFe 3S 9.9v Transmitter pack.

$16.99, HobbyKing 50watt 5A X-Charger/Balancer

$2.69, Charging harness

 

A grand total of $272.25. A bit pricier than I was aiming to get it but don't forget that theres about $80 worth of radio and charging gear that can be re-used in the next multirotor. Once you've built one, you won't stop at that. Tri, quad, hex, octo ... they're all possible with these same parts.

****If I've forgotten anything on the list, leave me a comment below 🙂

18Oct/120

Imitation DJI F550 build

Parts used in this build;

H550 V2 Glass Fiber Hexcopter Frame 550mm - Integrated PCB Version

9 Mode Multi Colour/Multi Function LED strip with Control Unit

Hobbyking KK2.0 Multi-rotor LCD Flight Control Board

NTM Prop Drive Series 28-26A 1200kv / 250w

NTM Prop Drive 28 Series Accessory Pack

TURNIGY Plush 30amp Speed Controller

Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045R (4 pc - Green, RH Rotation)

Slow Fly Electric Prop 8045SF (4 pc)

 

 

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